Friday, February 17, 2012

Day 12 - Kuala Lumpur & Kuala Gandah

All the times we've visited Malaysia, and KL in particular, we've never been to many of the must-see sights... PutraJaya is a case in point. But there never seems to be enough time so this time we particularly wanted to visit the elephant sanctuary and orphanage at Kuala Gandah, about and hour and a half east of KL.

Rahmat has recommended a driver who he uses, so at 11am we are met by Saran outside KLCC and head off to see the elephants. As I've said before, these people really know how to build freeways (they are not free, but you pay a very low toll) and the Eastern Freeway to Kuantan is mostly three lanes in either direction. Liz and I have driven this road before and it winds its way up through the rugged jungle-covered mountains before running across the green palm-oil plantations which stretch as far as the eye can see.

We turn off the highway and wind our way through traditional Malay villages before arriving at the Kuala Gandah Elephant Sanctuary which sits amid an untouched rainforest which covers a large area. The heat is almost unbearable but we are shown to a theatre room (air-conditioned thank god!) where we, along with a swag of other tourists, watch a quite disturbing documentary about how the Sanctuary experts relocate rogue wild elephants, from all over the Malaysian peninsular, which are destroying plantations. It reminds me of that old Peter Finch/Elizabeth Taylor movie, Elephant Walk. The elephants lose their traditional grazing forests to palm plantations and other human activity and they rebel, causing problems. So, rather than kill them... which somevillagers do if not stopped... the Sanctuary relocates them to the forests of Kuala Gandah. It is a sobering documentary.

The elephant activities start at 2:45 so we have an hour or so to wait so we try and stay cool under the trees near the fast flowing jungle river where naked local boys are diving off the observation platforms and generally having a fun and cool day off school.

The young elephants are brought out first and the tourists are able to feed them peanuts and bits of fruit... they are very tame and they have learned the routine well. We get some shots and then they bring out the adult elephants, each with a mahout on top.

They put on a bit of a display... the usual stuff you see at a circus, and then they are brought forward to a number of low bins on the ground filled with cut fruit. Everyone is invited to feed the elephants up close and personal as the mahouts stand by and assist.

Liz takes a bit of convincing but she finally steps up and grabs a piece of pawpaw and the elephant opens its mouth... she places the fruit right on his tongue! The elephant obviously loves the fruit and looks pleased but Liz almost faints when she brushes her hand across its tongue!

I miss the shot so she has to do it four more times before I get a good one... abit out of focus but it all happens so fast. Everyone is really loving this part of the activity and we can see where our donations go... entry to the Sanctuary is free but donations are appreciated and go towards the cost of feeding and caring for the elephants.

These are the tame ones but there are many out there in the Sanctuary rainforest... hopefully living happily without any interference. It is a real eye opener for us and we thouroughly enjoy the day, despite the bloody heat!

We then head back to KL and along the way Saran spots a roadside stall selling Durians. Rahmat has told Saran that I like durians so he stops and we dig into a couple.

 Liz and I have both had durian before and we like them. People ask what they are like and I tell them it's like eating a custard apple in a toilet! Some people hate them, some people like them.... I love them... the King of fruit!

Back on the road and we strike Friday afternoon traffic jams. The freeways are great but like any big city, there are so many cars even super freeways cannot cope. Saran drops us at Traders and we freshen up before deciding to head for the food nextravaganza of Jalan Alor. My sister Jan reckons she found a good place amongst the mayhem so we are keen to try it. 


I have some unpleasant memories from the last time I was at Jalan Alor (long story and those who know it will  know why I am a little gun-shy of the place!) but despite being stuck in solid traffic all around the Bukit Bintang area, we finally arrive at the famous KL food street. It's raining heavily so the umbrellas are out on the tables which are moved out onto the street with just enough room for one car to pass by. There are people everywhere and the sights and smells are something everyone should experience at least once.





We stop at the Tasty Corner Restaurant where the crew guides us to a table in the street and takes our order... fried rice, steamed Kailan with Garlic, Fish Balls in Broth, and BBQ Chicken Wings... plus a large bottle of Tiger and a Diet Coke for Liz. The dishes arrive like bullets from a gatling gun ... hot, fresh and delicious. It may be street hawker food but it is the food of the gods! Well maybe after being to Hoi An and Vietnam I might change my food priorities but for sheer dining excitement you cannot beat a night at Jalan Alor.

The streets are packed at 10pm and the traffic is at a standstill so we grab a coffee at The Coffee Bean at Low Yat Plaza and watch the world go by... and from where we are sitting... that's not very fast! Typical Bintang night gridlock! There is a bit of excitement in the street when a local lad, dressed in jeans, a white sleeveless Harley Davidson T-shirt, Marlon Brando sunglasses and a set of chains hanging from his leather jacket, thunders up to the front of the Plaza on a brught yellow Harley. It sounds like a B52 bombing raid as he guns the engine and the sound echoes through the narrow street. He certainly gets the attention of the slim Asian girls, dressed in not much more than something the size of a handerkerchief, who fall about with wide-eyes as they watch the guy park the hog. Even the parking attendants are impressed.

The guy heads off down the street with a gaggleof girls in tow headed for the night spots... but this old bloke is gonna grab his honey and try and get a cab back to the hotel... with any luck the traffic might ease up and we might make it back for breakfast!

We are off to Penang tomorrow and I am driving so it should be interesting. Take care all.     

1 comment:

  1. I am glad that the dreaded bug has not struck. Find out how to select a good durian so next time I go to Cabra I will know what to look for.

    Cheers

    Ian

    ReplyDelete