Saturday, February 11, 2012

Day 6 - Saigon- Hoi An

Our washing made it back! Mai, the lady running a corner laundry service opposite our hotel came through with the goods ... four days worth of clothes in 2 plastic bags and the princely sum of $17. That's about 1/4 the price of the hotel laundry service. It's one of the things they don't tell you about in the glossy travel brochures and it's a pain in the ass, trying to figure out how long the clothes you packed will last you, and scheduling washing days.


We opted for the German restaurant last night and it was great... missed the fresh herbs and vegetables of the simple Vietnamese food we are getting used to but the Schnitzel was first rate and the large glasses of cold German beer hit the spot.  


We discovered there is a night club called Apocalypse Now quite nearby the hotel and we decided to go have a look... maybe a visit there will be a fitting end to the saga of the dropped G2. We heard the Beautiful People don't even get there until 10pm so us oldies might just be acceptable if we turn up at 8pm.


We found it on the map in Lonely Planet and realised it wasn't far so we walked the busy but sometimes weirdly darkened back streets and finally found it. Typical night club and at this hour, more staff than patrons and it was expected you buy a drink, so a Budweiser seemed appropriate. Apparently this place has been open 20 years so it definitely wasn't happening when Francis Ford Coppola created the cult movie. But it had atmosphere to burn and Colonel Kurtz would have felt right at home here in the half-light and jungle trimmings. We bought a couple of t-shirts for the guys back home and then decided to head for the hills before the hoards arrived and the ear-splitting music started... The Horror.... The Horror...!!!

So now it's Saturday and we leave Saigon for Hoi An via Da Nang. Breakfast once again for me was Pho... I just love it and I'm gonna have to learn how to make it back home. Then an easy couple of hours getting everything packed and organised to reduce the weight. We left home pretty light but after a couple of books and t-shirts etc the kilos add up. 

Lunch at our favourite little restaurant across the road.. No. 19 ... and a couple of Tigers for the heat which is heading for the mid to high 30s. We love Saigon but the heat does get to you so you need to keep the fluids up... in my case a cold beer. Liz has her water bottle with her all the time... maybe that explains why she has so many sandbox stops!

The hotel guys organise a cab to the domestic terminal and it's goodbye Saigon. Would we go back? In a heartbeat! It's busy and hot and hectic but its great.


Vietnam Airlines flight VN1318 is an Airbus A330 and it's full on the 1 hour flight to Da Nang on the east coast. This was the site of one of the largest air bases during the war but before that, the French made their mark and it became a holiday location with sensational long beaches which those on R&R during the war renamed China Beach.


The terminal at the airport is only a couple of months old... very modern indeed, and soon enough we are bundled into a small bus from the hotel for the 30 minute drive to Hoi An. This is a happening city with new buildings going up everywhere and plenty of space. Someone has seen what the future is here and they are wasting no time in developing a vibrant tourism industry. I reckon within 10 years most Aussies looking at beach resorts will be holidaying here rather than the traditional Asian hot spots like Bali and Thailand. 

As we head south, parallel to the beach, I am transported back 45 years to the beginnings of the Gold Coast. It looks exactly the same and dotted across the sand dunes are big hotel and resort developments. There's a Greg Norman designed golf course with a big resort... I'll lay money on this place taking off sooner rather than later.

We skirt the town of Hoi An just as the sun is setting over the high mountains to the west... I really wanted to get a shot of the old town and the river at sunset but we need to check in and get organised. I'm now wishing we'd planned for more than 3 nights (2 full days) here. 

We arrive at the Victoria Hoi An Resort, about 2-3 clicks south of the town and it looks fabulous. Our greeting and check-in at Reception is nothing short of outstanding... a flock of pretty young things buzz around and everything is explained, drinks are provided plus cold face washers... this is a class joint!

The view from our bed.....

We are then escorted to our room... and it is a town-house type of bungalow about 20 feet from the beach and the roaring surf! Even in the soft evening light we can see the beach that stretches away for 40 kilometres to the north. Liz reckons she's died and gone to heaven! We can lay in bed and without moving an inch, look out to the South China Sea between the palm trees. It is a luxury we hadn't expected and we are now regretting not staying longer. I'm already planning the sunrise shots!


A beautiful young Vietnamese girl arrives at our glass doors and reminds us that tonight is a Seafood Buffet... we don't need any further incentive and we head through the lush gardens and spectacular ornamental ponds to the restaurant by the pool where already the aroma and smoke haze of freshly grilled tiger prawns awaits us. A bottle of French Savignon goes down well and the seafood buffet is the best we've ever seen... every type of seafood, both fresh and cooked, laid out right in front of you!

There is a large crowd of UK tousists in a group and they liven the place up in between the traditional dance routines performed by four stunningly beautiful Vietnamese girls. Liz reckons I'm now thinking I've died and gone to heaven! "Can't I just take one home to be my research assistant?" Oh well... at least I won't need a stress test next month... the ticker is working perfectly!

Before heading to our room, with the sound of the crashing surf in the background, we speak with Aude, the lovely French Tour Desk lady (she even understands my schoolboy French and we chat for a while!) and I book a Cooking Lesson for Monday at the Morning Glory restaurant in Hoi An. An old school mate I haven't seen for over 40 years, and who was here just 2 weeks ago, recommended the course as a must-do in Hoi An. It includes visiting the markets and buying the fresh produce which you then cook... should be interesting. Liz said she'll sit by the pool and read a book.

The sound of the surf rumbles as I write this and I'll be up early to get a sunrise shot... but I'm also thinking that today, the 11th February is the day my dear old Mum left us 4 years ago. Miss ya Mim.

1 comment:

  1. Make sure you get a good recipe for Pho. Keep having fun.

    Cheers

    Ian

    ReplyDelete